12.11.2010

the Common Libation: Edmund st. Johns


We'd seen this bottle around town. It caught our eye at Pasta Works, the grocery store, Portland Wine Merchants-- begging to be taken home. In a blind tasting I concluded an Alsacian Pinot Gris... close-- this varietal wine is made with the intention of emulating the French style. Perhaps sir Winemaker might take my guess as a compliment. Here's the inside scoop:



Edmund st. Johns 2006, California

concoction: 100% Pinot Gris 13%abv

sight: pale old straw turned to golden thread (see also: Rapunzel.)

sniffings: light and powdery golden pears and supple pineapple.

palate: with impressive acidity, crisp candied pears, and soft peachy nut pie, this happy Pinot Gris leaves one feeling light and airy. Though this wine has obviously undergone malo-lactic fermentation, the demure vanilla accent fades quickly into an uninspiring, watery finish.

conclusion: this $10 wine is fun, yet I'd love to try a more recent vintage; I have a feeling this Gris should have been imbibed closer to its youth.

12.01.2010

Somms on the Road

My ISG Sommelier class, led by instructor Savannah Ray (Sommelier, ten01), recently trekked out to Oregon wine country for some rockin' tastings. Here's where we ventured:


Argyle -- the highest rated non-champagne sparkling in the world.

Argyle uses impressive modern and antique machines to make their bubbles the traditional way (méthode champenoise seen right), and remain one of the select few who attempt to create such airy delights.

Phenomenal Argyle tastes:

  • elegant roses & strawberries - the 2007 Brut Rosé (90 pts Wine Spectator, $50).
  • robust - 2007 "Nuthouse" Pinot Noir ($50).
  • salty toasted hazelnut "Nuthouse" Chardonnay (92pts Wine Spectator, $33).
Cristom -- "letting the land make the wines," and doing a damn fine job of it.
We wandered the sleeping vineyards with Cristom winemaker Steve Doerner who explained that great wine starts in the soil. After cozying ourselves in the tasting room, we worked through three flights and a vertical featuring "Margorie" Pinot Noir, vintages 1996 through 1999.
Phenomenal Cristom Pinots:
  • 2007 Margorie
  • 2007 Louise
  • 2006 Lea
Evening Land -- Burgundy's superstar winemaker Dominique LaFon + EL's winemaster Isabelle Meunier = top tier, classic Pinot.

After touring Evening Land's modern warehouse facility and tasting a plethora of wines, Ken Pahlow (winemaker of Walter Scott) presented an egregiously long syphon for our barrel tasting pleasure. His 2010 fuscia-tastic Gamay (Beaujolais Nouveau anyone?) was fresh and young, while the not-quite-mature Pinot Gris popped out of the glass, and his Pinot Blanc earned ♥ ♥. I am really looking forward to the release of these Walter Scotts!

Phenomenal Evening Land tastes:
  • orange zest and subtle oak infused 2008 Red Queen Pinot Noir (93 pts Wine Advocate, $90) is a member of the prestigious top tier white label line, said to represent the "pinnacle... of the vineyard's best self."
  • another white label member, the 2008 Seven Springs Vineyard Summom Chardonnay (95 pts Wine Spectator, $116!!), exhibits saltwater taffy, magical acidity, and fresh creaminess.

the Superlative Intoxicant: Juicy Gris

Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris, 2007 Alsace, France

concoction: Pinot Gris (aka Pinot Grigio, the mutant, white Pinot Noir).
visuals: silvery and subtle yet vibrant canary.
sniffings: soft peaches and sweet honey with simple floral overtones.
palate: toasty peaches with playful acidity cloaked in a soft glycerin textured cream. 13% abv.
ruling: simple and clean fun over an antipasto plate and a game of basement darts.
spendings: an unobtrusive $8.
pairing pick: smoked goat cheese on salted date crackers.